Monthly Archive for December, 2011

How to Discover your “Other” Facebook Inbox

Question MarkDid you know that your Facebook account has two message inboxes?

There’s the standard inbox – where you get messages from friends. But there’s also the “Other” inbox, where messages from Pages you’ve “Liked” and people you’re not yet connected to on Facebook go to.

Unlike your standard inbox – which Facebook notifies you whenever you’ve received a message to – the “Other” inbox fills up without you receiving any notifications.

Go ahead and check it now, I bet it’s full of messages going back months and months that you weren’t aware of!

To see your “Other” inbox…

1.  When logged into Facebook, within your Favourites on the left-hand side of the screen, click on the “Messages” linkFacebook Messages Screenshot

 

 

 

 

 

2.  A new “Other” link will appear below the “Messages” link. Click the “Other” link.

Facebook Other Messages Screenshot

 

 

 

 

 

 

3. On the right hand side, your “Other messages” will now appear.

Sadly I’ve not found a way to be notified when messages appear in your “Other” inbox – but at least now you’re aware of it you can check it from time to time so you don’t miss anything important!

 

How to Prevent yourself being tagged in Facebook Photos

Sad Lady in Christmas HatIt’s that time of year again when the Christmas spirit comes to us all, seasonal parties are in full swing and alcohol is often in easy supply. With just about everybody owning a Camera phone of some sort, the opportunity for less than flattering pictures of you appearing on Facebook is also at its highest!

Personally, I’ve very little shame in what appears on my Facebook feed (as anyone who is friends with me on Facebook will attest to) but I know that’s not the case for everyone and some friends have recently asked me for advice on how they can minimise the risk of others tagging them in photos they may not be comfortable with displaying to the world.

Therefore, here’s a guide on how to prevent yourself being tagged in Facebook photos.

To allow others to continue to tag you in photographs, but for you to be notified and given the opportunity to allow or deny that tag *before* the picture appears on your Facebook profile – take the following steps:-

1. When logged into Facebook, click the the Home button in the top right hand corner, then select Privacy Settings.

2. Around half way down the page, next to “How Tags Work” click the “Edit Settings” option.

3. In the pop-up options box that appears, next to “Profile Review of posts friends tag you in before they go on your profile)” click the default “Off” button.Facebook How Tags Work Screenshot

 

 

 

 

 

 

4. In the “Profile Review” screen that appears, click on the “Disabled” button and change it to “Enabled”.Facebook Profile Review Screenshot

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5. Click Back.

6. Click Done.

Voila! The next time somebody tags you in a photograph, before that photo  appears on your Facebook profile you’ll be given the chance to review that tag and either allow the tag (at which point the photo will appear on your profile) or deny the tag (at which point the photo will remain on your friends profile, but without your name tagged within it).

Of course there is no way of taking back the conversation you had with the boss whilst in the full swing of the “Christmas spirit”, but hopefully the above method will save you some blushes! Smile

 


Free Webinar – How to increase your MSP business with the right tools

Ostrich IT LogoA shout out for my good friend Matt Barton of Ostrich IT who is running a webinar for the SMB IT Community entitled “How to increase your MSP business with the right tools”.

For those who haven’t had the pleasure of meeting him at a Community event or Conference, Matt runs Ostrich IT based in Exmouth. As well as running a rapidly growing business – they recently qualified as Devon’s only Accredit UK qualified company as well as being chosen as the preferred IT Support partner to a £30mn business -  Matt is a regular contributor at the UK SMB IT Community groups. Matt often travels the insanely long drive from Exmouth to Birmingham to visit my local group, AMITPRO, for instance, where he presented earlier this year.

During the webinar, Matt plans to talk about the tools he’s used to grow his business and take questions from attendees.

Matt is running this webinar with no motivation other than sharing his knowledge with fellow business owners – which is no surprise to anyone who knows him and how openly he is willing to help others – so I hope you’ll support him with this webinar and get involved.

The webinar takes place on Tuesday December 20th at 4pm GMT, and registration is free – sign-up now!

 

How to Protect the Data on your Laptop or Mobile Device – Part Two

SmartphonesI recently wrote about the lessons I’d learned from losing my laptop computer, and the measures I’d taken to ensure my devices and data were protected going forwards.

I was lucky enough to have my laptop returned to me, but what would happen if you lost a mobile device such as a laptop, smartphone or tablet?

Earlier in the week I looked at tracking your lost device, but now I’m looking at protecting the most valuable part of any Laptop or other mobile device – your data.

In yesterday’s article I looked at using Encryption and Device Lock mechanisms to protect your mobile device data.

In the second part of my guide on how to protect the data on your laptop or mobile device, let’s take a look at how you’d recover your data if you ever lost the mobile device that data is stored upon.

Backing up your basic Data

For all mobile devices – including laptops – there are a plethora of backup  which involve synchronising your essential data – such as contacts and calendar – to the cloud, enabling you to access that data from other devices and restore it to the same or a different device.

For Android users, Google already does a great job of making sure most of your basic data (such as contacts and calendar) is synchronised to the Cloud. Additionally, using an app like AppBrain ensures that all those apps you’ve installed are quickly and easily restored to any new device – albeit you’ll need to re-configure their settings. You could also use an App like SMS Backup+ to backup all your SMS, MMS and Call Log entries to GoogleMail, and Google+ ensures all your phone camera photographs are automatically synchronised on-line too.

If you’re using Microsoft Exchange or GoogleMail for your e-mail, then your E-Mail, Contacts and Calendar are typically automatically synchronised to a central server. Re-connect any device to Exchange or GMail and this information will be downloaded to the new device.

Even if you’re not using a Smartphone but an older more traditionally mobile phone – a service like Mobyko enables you to backup all of your photos, videos, texts, calendar entries and contacts on-line – so if you get a new device, you don’t have to manually re-input them all.

Typically though, all of these Cloud Synchronisation methods are aimed at backing up your most basic data – E-Mail, Contacts, Calendar, etc. What about the documents you work with such as Spreadsheets, Music and more?

Backing up your Files and Documents

A more robust Cloud based Backup solution will give you the option to select pretty much any set of data to back up, limited only by the capacity of the Cloud Backup provider you use.

Typically, this data would include your private documents such as Spreadsheets, Word Processor documents and more – but could easily be extended to include Pictures, Music, Videos and just about any other type of data you wish.

imageApple’s iTunes software already does a good job of backing up your iPhone, iPod or iPad – meaning if you lost your device, typically your music, apps and purchases are easily transferred to a new device – even if your original device is not available. With iOS 5, iPhone and iPad users also have access to Apple’s free iCloud service – which backs up your e-mail, contacts, calendars and documents to the Cloud.

But for more flexibility, a service such as Dropbox is a must-have.

Dropbox LogoA free Dropbox account gives 2GB of Cloud based storage away for free, and has software clients available for nearly all major platforms – including PC, Mac, iOS and Android.

Dropbox works by making sure that any data stored within a folder you create as home for your data is automatically and near instantly backed up to the Cloud, and additionally can be sychronised to any other device you choose too.

For myself, I have Dropbox installed on my Laptop PC under Windows 7 and within my Dropbox folder have sub-folders containing all everything from work to travel documents. I then have Dropbox installed on my Notebook PC so that if I’m travelling I have access to all my work, and any changes I make are automatically backed up on-line and synchronised to my laptop.

Furthermore I have Dropbox installed on my Android Smartphone, iPhone and iPad, so I can quickly refer to any of my documents in a flash.

I therefore always have the latest copy of my document with me, whichever device I’m using.

The added benefit of Dropbox is that because everything is also stored on a secure central server, I can also access any of my documents from any other PC in the world via a secure login. What’s more, if I want to share documents with another Dropbox user – I can simply right-click a folder and grant them permissions (ranging from Read Only, to full Edit) and the document appears on their device for their use – and they can do the same with me.

Knowing all of your data is continuously backed up and available wherever you are in the world gives real peace of mind. Never lose or forget a document again!

Obviously, you need to be aware of the capacity limits of your free Dropbox account – start using it to backup your large Music or Picture collection and you’ll soon run out of space – but Dropbox do offer a paid for premium  account with much greater capacity should you chose.

There are a plethora of other free and optionally premium backup solutions out there too – such as Mozy – and many other Synchronisation tools such as SugarSync and Windows Live Mesh – and there’s nothing stopping you using more than one service! On my Home Server in addition to having a local NAS based backup, I also use Mozy for home documents, SugarSync for my Videos, and Windows Live Mesh for old Archived documents. All are accessible from a web-browser from any device, so I figure there’s no harm in having your data backed up in more than one place!

 

Full Device Backup

For real belt and braces backup of your mobile devices, you’ll want to take a full device backup in addition to cloud based backups of your ever changing data.

A full device backup will backup all the settings on your device and often all the Operating System files too, meaning that if you ever experience a faulty device or catastrophic software issue then you can quickly reset the device back to full working order by restoring from the original image backup. The restore will then be complimented with your most current data from your Cloud backup.

Android Smartphone and Tablet users have a number of other options for full device backup. Check out Titanium Backup Root and Sprite Backup amongst many others.

StorageCraft ShadowProtect LogoFor Laptop computers and Netbooks, I use StorageCraft ShadowProtect to make a full image backup of my PC once it’s created and store this locally on a USB Hard Disk kept at home, as well as on a spare data partition. In conjunction with a Recovery CD or USB Key Disk (provided by StorageCraft) this means that even when I’m on the road travelling, in the event of a particularly nasty software failure I can restore my PC back to a working state using the original image, and have a backup stored at home in the event of a total Hard Disk failure.

Whenever you’re making a local backup of your device, always make sure that  any backup of your laptop or device is password protected (most backup software has this option) to ensure the data contained within that backup is safe. Otherwise a lost backup could offer someone the chance to snoop at all of your private data in one fell swoop!

 

Conclusion

I hope you’ve found this short guide, born out of the fact I thought I’d lost my own laptop, useful!

By making sure you use tools for tracking your lost laptop, smartphone or tablet, implementing both a Device Lock and Data Encryption, and ensuring that all of your data is backed up and synchronised to the Cloud, perhaps in conjunction with a full device backup – you should feel assured that in the event that you do lose your mobile device, you’ve given yourself every chance of recovering it and can rest safe in the knowledge that any data contained upon that device will remain secure.

Thoughts or feedback? Do you use different tools or strategies? I’d love to hear from you – please leave a comment or get in touch!

 

How to Protect the Data on your Laptop or Mobile Device – Part One

Picture of a LockI recently wrote about the lessons I’d learned from losing my laptop computer, and the measures I’d taken to ensure my devices and data were protected going forwards.

I was lucky enough to have my laptop returned to me, but what would happen if you lost a mobile device such as a laptop, smartphone or tablet?

Yesterday I looked at tracking your lost device, but today I’m looking at protecting the most valuable part of any Laptop or other mobile device – your data.

In my case, I had a Windows 7 laptop protected with a strong password – but I know from experience that someone who is well motivated and has even basic IT knowledge could get past a password alone. So what other measures can you take to protect your data?

 

Device Lock

A really simple one, this – but one many people overlook.

If you’ve got a Mobile Phone or Smartphone, then turn on the SIM lock – a PIN number which needs to be entered when you first turn the ‘phone on or put your SIM into another device. This prevents your lost ‘phone being used to make outgoing calls and racking up a nasty bill for you, or your SIM being placed in a new device for the same purpose.

iPhone Lock ScreenIn addition to a SIM lock, or if you’re running a device without a SIM, turn on the device lock. Every Mobile Phone, Smartphone, MP3 player and Tablet should have this functionality – which ensures that any time your device is unlocked, you need to put in a PIN code to begin using it.

For Laptops and Netbooks, turning on the “Start-up Password” or “Boot Password” uses a similar concept to a device lock. Before the Hard Disk boots, you need to type in a password to enable the process to begin. Typically these types of password are harder to hack than a simple Windows logon – but again, a well motivated and IT savvy individual could get around this with time and experience.

 

Encryption

The concept of encryption is based on complex mathematics, yet simple to implement. Using software, the data you choose on your PC is scrambled using a specific encryption password of your choice. When you enter the correct password (usually at start-up) the data becomes readable. If you don’t have the password – then even if you try to circumvent any other security measures to get to the data on the device – the only information you’ll be able to read is gobbledegook.

TrueCrypt LogoIn my case, I implemented the Open Source (and therefore free) TrueCrypt on both my netbook and laptop PC. TrueCrypt is freely available for Windows 7, Vista, XP, Apple Mac OSX and Linux.

Once you download and install the software, you can choose to either create an encrypted folder or folders on your PC (perhaps containing confidential data) or alternatively, an entire Partition on your Hard Drive or indeed the entire Hard Drive itself can be encrypted.

If you create an encrypted folder then each time you use your computer and before you access the files within that specific folder, TrueCrypt prompts you for your encryption password. Enter the password and the folder looks and behaves like any other folder – you can work with documents, add and delete files, etc. But if you don’t have the password to that folder then you can’t gain access to its contents – in fact, the folder actually just looks like a normal file that contains data that can’t be read using any method.

As I wanted to protect all of the data on my laptop (including the temporary files that Windows creates – such as Web-Browser history, downloads, etc.) I chose to encrypt both partitions on my Hard Disk, the first containing my Windows data, the second containing my personal data.

TrueCrypt ScreenshotThe process was simple. Within TrueCrypt I selected “Create a New Volume” and then selected the C: drive. After creating a strong encryption password, TrueCrypt prompted me to create a recovery CD – which could be used to recover the data on my Hard Disk should I ever forget my encryption password.

TrueCrypt then ran a test to ensure my laptop would be able to handle the encryption. Once the test ran successfully, the encryption process began – which for my 60GB SSD Hard Disk took about 90 minutes.

I repeated the process for my D: (data) drive, and around an hour later I rebooted my PC whereon I was prompted for my encryption password.

Windows 7 booted up, and I continued to use my computer as pre-encryption – albeit safe in the knowledge that if my laptop was ever lost or stolen, the data contained on it would be near impossible for anyone to read without my encryption password.

The only downside I found to the process is that restoring my laptop from Hibernation (Sleep) mode was a *lot* slower than it used to be. I’ve noticed no perceptible difference in speed in using the PC otherwise though, so a small price to pay for peace of mind.

Other encryption software is available, including BitLocker on certain Windows PC’s, and Droid Crypt for Android devices. TrueCrypt remains my preference for computers though.

 

End of Part One

So once you’ve made sure your device isn’t easily accessed, and the data contained on it isn’t able to be read by prying eyes – thoughts then turn to how you’d recover your data if you ever lost the mobile device that data is stored upon.

Tomorrow I’ll take a look at the methods I use to backup the data on both my PC’s and Smartphones.